Alpe D'Huez ride, July 17th, 2001 
(same day as the 'Tour stage)

Truth is, this is a ride just about anybody can handle.  Is Alpe D'Huez big?  Sure!  But, in a peculiar sort of way, it's very friendly.  The start of the climb is quite steep, perhaps 11%, up to the first hairpin.  From there on it's a combination of fairly steep sections between each hairpin, where it mercifully flattens out, giving you a chance to either rest or pick up some speed for the next section.

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Bourg D'Oisans, a very pleasant little town at the base of Alpe D'Huez.  You'll find many small shops and rather stunning surroundings that remind you of Yosemite.  And, of course, a bicycle shop... Cycles Et Sports.
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Sorry, just can't resist touring the local bike shop!  Quite a nice place, featuring most of the same stuff you'd find in a decent shop in the US.  One thing missing...a wall full of DeFeet socks.  Still managed to find some souvenir Alpe D'Huez socks and gloves though!  I'd recommend the socks, which have held up well, but the glove?  Cool souvenirs, but don't wear 'em.  They won't last long. 
Sometimes, things look as scenic in real life as they appear to be on the map.  This is one of those times.

For Alpe D'Huez to be a truly epic experience, it should be part of a much longer ride, including some of the notable nearby cols (that's mountain, in euro-speak).  But for us, time was limited, and the goal was to make it back with plenty of time to watch the race, scheduled to pass through around 4pm.

We started at Bourg D'Oisans, at just before 10.  By 10:04 we had reached the first hairpin, and had finished the climb by 11:18 (which included several stops and a rather leisurely pace overall).  Alpe D'Huez is in no way comparable to Mont Ventoux, or Sonora Pass for that matter.  The frequent (and numbered) switchbacks help pass the time, and the ever-changing grade breaks up the monotony as well.  And the views?  You couldn't say enough about the spectacular beauty!

We spent about half an hour at the top, and then headed back down, turning off the main drag at the hamlet of Huez and taking 211B through Villard-Reculas, which then becomes 44B, which hooks up with 44, which connects to 526, which takes you to 91 and, finally, back to Bourg D'Oisans.  It's probably less than 40 miles total, and definitely leaves you wanting more!

From what I've read, the 211A (on the lower part of the map above) is the killer road in the area, one of those classic grades that hugs the mountainside with virtually no shoulder and low guardrails that serve little purpose other than to mark the edge of the road (and, fortunately, virtually zero traffic as well!).

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Not only does it look like the entrance to Yosemite, it's nearly as crowded!  Could have something to do with riding up the morning of the 'Tour de France.  Approaching hairpin #21 (the hairpins are numbered in descending order, #1 being at the top).  At this point the road is steep and wide, but relief is in sight!
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So, is Dufii the plural of Dufus?  Mike J and Steve H of Chain Reaction and Livermore Cyclery, maybe halfway up the climb.
Don't remember this guy's name, but he was very friendly and spoke English...what's not to like?  Oh.  Wait a sec.  Never noticed that Cofidis jersey... could he be the same guy that...nah, couldn't be! could he be the same guy that...nah, couldn't be!
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The top of Alpe D'Huez is a curious combination of Wild West & Ski town.  The place was thick with excitement as you had to maneuver through the sometimes-thick crowds of people, and you felt a giddy sense of euphoria for having cycled to the top just hours ahead of the most famous bicycle race in the world.  We hung around for maybe half an hour before heading back down to our base camp in the town far, far below.
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It's like Yosemite, where every picture you take looks like a postcard. Far below you see the town of Bourg D'Oisans, where we started our journey.
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On the way back, we left the main road, which by this time was getting so crowded that it made descending a tiresome endeavor, and headed down 211B through the village of Villard-Reculas.  On the left photo above, you can see some of the hairpins that Alpe D'Huez is so famous for.  I would highly recommend the descending on 211B for its spectacular beauty and the occasional spot where the road is built into the side of the mountain, with nothing but a thin guardrail between you and a drop of several thousand feet.
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On the left is a campground with someone already setting up a spot for watching the 'Tour, which won't be coming through for at least four hours!

The right-hand photo has to be the ultimate blackmail shot.  We're heading back towards Bourg D'Oisans on this pleasant little country road and, without computers on our bikes, not really aware of our speed.  Then, out of nowhere, comes a hopped-up super-moped, speeding past us and threatening to fly ahead of us into town.

Hey, we can't have that happen, can we?  So we bolt upright and come to our senses, thinking there's no way a stinkin' moped (they do stink, you know, being two-stroke engines) can mess with us.  Quickly we latch onto his wheel, and he struggles to try to stay away, but we tenaciously hang onto his tail.

Well, that would have been our story, until some guy on a Bike Friday (a folding commuter bike) dings his bell and passes both us and the moped.  Talk about being caught!  This was humiliation at its very worst, so we quickly regrouped, sped around the moped and chased the guy down (leaving the moped where it should have been all along, way back in the distance).

Richard B, if you're reading this, the guy was from Edinburgh (my apologies if I botched the town) and had the local cycling club's jersey.  I would have asked if he knew you, except that my mind was still dealing with the shame of having drafted a moped for a few kilometers...

Last updated 09/06/07

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