Alpe D'Huez ride,
July 17th, 2001
(same day
as the 'Tour stage)
Truth is, this is a ride just about anybody
can handle. Is Alpe D'Huez big? Sure! But, in a peculiar
sort of way, it's very friendly. The start of the climb is quite
steep, perhaps 11%, up to the first hairpin. From there on it's a
combination of fairly steep sections between each hairpin, where it
mercifully flattens out, giving you a chance to either rest or pick up
some speed for the next section.
Bourg D'Oisans, a very pleasant
little town at the base of Alpe D'Huez. You'll find many
small shops and rather stunning surroundings that remind you of
Yosemite. And, of course, a bicycle shop... Cycles
Et Sports.
Sorry, just can't resist touring the
local bike shop! Quite a nice place, featuring most of the
same stuff you'd find in a decent shop in the US. One thing
missing...a wall full of DeFeet socks. Still managed to find
some souvenir Alpe D'Huez socks and gloves though! I'd
recommend the socks, which have held up well, but the glove?
Cool souvenirs, but don't wear 'em. They won't last long.
Sometimes,
things look as scenic in real life as they
appear to be on the map. This is one of those times.
For Alpe D'Huez to be a truly epic experience,
it should be part of a much longer ride, including some of the
notable nearby cols (that's mountain, in euro-speak). But
for us, time was limited, and the goal was to make it back with
plenty of time to watch the race, scheduled to pass through around
4pm.
We started at Bourg D'Oisans, at just before
10. By 10:04 we had reached the first hairpin, and had
finished the climb by 11:18 (which included several stops and a
rather leisurely pace overall). Alpe D'Huez is in no way
comparable to Mont Ventoux, or Sonora Pass for that matter.
The frequent (and numbered) switchbacks help pass the time, and
the ever-changing grade breaks up the monotony as well. And
the views? You couldn't say enough about the spectacular
beauty!
We spent about half an hour at the top, and then
headed back down, turning off the main drag at the hamlet of Huez
and taking 211B through Villard-Reculas, which then becomes 44B,
which hooks up with 44, which connects to 526, which takes you to
91 and, finally, back to Bourg D'Oisans. It's probably less
than 40 miles total, and definitely leaves you wanting more!
From what I've read, the 211A (on the lower part
of the map above) is the killer road
in the area, one of those classic grades that hugs the
mountainside with virtually no shoulder and low guardrails that
serve little purpose other than to mark the edge of the road (and,
fortunately, virtually zero traffic as well!).
Not only does it look like the entrance to
Yosemite, it's nearly as crowded! Could have something to do
with riding up the morning of the 'Tour de France.
Approaching hairpin #21 (the hairpins are
numbered in descending order, #1 being at the top). At this
point the road is steep and wide, but relief is in sight!
So, is Dufii the plural of Dufus? Mike J
and Steve H of Chain Reaction and Livermore Cyclery, maybe halfway
up the climb.
Don't remember this guy's name, but he was very
friendly and spoke English...what's not to like? Oh.
Wait a sec. Never noticed that Cofidis jersey...
could he be the same guy that...nah, couldn't be!
could he be the same guy that...nah, couldn't be!
The top of Alpe D'Huez is a curious
combination of Wild West & Ski town. The place was thick with
excitement as you had to maneuver through the sometimes-thick crowds
of people, and you felt a giddy sense of euphoria for having cycled
to the top just hours ahead of the most famous bicycle race in the
world. We hung around for maybe half an hour before heading
back down to our base camp in the town far, far below.
It's like Yosemite, where every picture you take
looks like a postcard.
Far below you see the town of Bourg D'Oisans,
where we started our journey.
On the way back, we left the main
road, which by this time was getting so crowded that it made
descending a tiresome endeavor, and headed down 211B through the
village of Villard-Reculas. On the left photo above, you can
see some of the hairpins that Alpe D'Huez is so famous for. I
would highly recommend the descending on 211B for its spectacular
beauty and the occasional spot where the road is built into the side
of the mountain, with nothing but a thin guardrail between you and a
drop of several thousand feet.
On the left is a campground with
someone already setting up a spot for watching the 'Tour, which
won't be coming through for at least four hours!
The right-hand photo has to be the ultimate
blackmail shot. We're heading back towards Bourg D'Oisans on
this pleasant little country road and, without computers on our
bikes, not really aware of our speed. Then, out of nowhere,
comes a hopped-up super-moped, speeding past us and threatening to
fly ahead of us into town.
Hey, we can't have that happen, can we? So
we bolt upright and come to our senses, thinking there's no way a
stinkin' moped (they do stink, you know, being two-stroke engines)
can mess with us. Quickly we latch onto his wheel, and he
struggles to try to stay away, but we tenaciously hang onto his
tail.
Well, that would have been our story, until some
guy on a Bike Friday (a folding commuter bike) dings his bell and
passes both us and the moped. Talk about being caught!
This was humiliation at its very worst, so we quickly regrouped,
sped around the moped and chased the guy down (leaving the moped
where it should have been all along, way back in the distance).
Richard B, if you're reading this, the guy was
from Edinburgh (my apologies if I botched the town) and had the
local cycling club's jersey. I would have asked if he knew
you, except that my mind was still dealing with the shame of
having drafted a moped for a few kilometers...
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